Another country, another adventure… it’s time for my flight to Jordan. But first I have a layover in Muscat, the capital of Oman.

An impressive in-flight meal. Thanks, Oman Air!

During my long flight from Kathmandu to Muscat, the landscape shifts from snowy Himalayas to dry desert:

A few months ago I wrote a big post about the highlights of my Jordan trip. Over the next few weeks I’ll recap the specifics — the exact sites I visited, how I organized travel within Jordan, and the must-sees from this truly special country.

I’m staying at Jordan Tower hostel in Amman. After reading reviews on Hostel World, it’s clearly the most popular place for backpackers. The front desk coordinates day trips so guests can split the cost of taxi rides to nearby attractions. There isn’t a strong bus network in Jordan, so without cabs it takes a lot longer to get to the sites. Plus this hostel serves a killer breakfast:

I don’t eat eggs so I only order the side dishes — olives, hummus, bread, sweet cake, and jam. Plus delicious mint tea.

On my first full day in Amman, I walk around with my new friend Mel — she’s Mel from Melbourne and I’m Erica from America, as I later introduce us. This is downtown Amman:

And the Roman Amphitheater, mere blocks from our hostel:

I love the colors (and people watching) at this market.

A few nights later, we visit the Amman Citadel, which overlooks the city. It’s closed so we make a plan to come back in the morning before our day trip.

A view of the Roman Amphitheater from above:

We get a restaurant recommendation from our favorite taxi driver (more on him another day) and enjoy dinner out. The manager poses for a photo with us — that’s Mel from Melbourne, Melanie from Germany, me, the manager, and Julien from France. I adore these three new friends and we spend several days in a row sightseeing together and dining out at night.

Check out this dish that Julien holds below. It’s kanafeh — soft, hot cheese with a layer of caramelized sugar on top; a popular dish in the Middle East. I miss out since I don’t eat cheese but everyone else raves about it.

Observation while waiting in line: only Jordanian men stand in line; the women sit off to the side.

Another night we stop at a bakery to buy sweets. These cookies are fresh and SO tasty.

Melanie shows off a plate of goodies… I just checked my expense document and this was $1.

Once we’re back at the hostel, we discover that Mel, Melanie, and I are the only girls currently staying in the eight bed female dorm room. So Julien sneaks over for an impromptu cookie party.

Cookie parties are the best parties, am I right?!

First thing in the morning, we stop by the Amman Citadel again. I’m pleased to get photos without crowds!

The Soap House? The Royal Film Commission of Jordan? I’m intrigued.

Rainbow Street is a hip spot in Amman with loads of shops and restaurants. It has more of a Western feel (and is more expensive) but is a fun place to walk around.

Rumor has it that Brad & Angelina once ate falafel here:

Friends! This photo makes me happy:

We stop in Books@Cafe, a restaurant recommended by our guidebook (my friends ate here earlier and loved it). There’s also a bookstore downstairs.

And Hashem is about the most popular restaurant in Amman — Trip Advisor ranks it # 3 out of 339. Like, eight people told us we have to eat here, and we do multiple times.

It’s vegetarian and their main dish is falafel, served with hummus and pita. All of the food you see here — plus my tea — cost about $7. Mel and I run into a Canadian named Carla (adding onto our name / home country alliteration trend) who rents seasonal cabins at Takjini Hot Springs Valley Retreat Centre in the Yukon. She’s traveling by herself so all three of us share this spread:

Fun fact: the former King Hussein (his son Abdullah II currently reigns in Jordan) used to eat at Hashem on a semi-regular basis to interact with locals and hear their concerns. Similarly, he would sometimes drive a taxi to talk to common men and women. How cool is that?! It’d be like getting into a cab and finding out Obama was your driver.

More tomorrow on my day trips outside of Amman!