I spend a total of two weeks in Bali… but my favorite spot on the island is Lovina, a quiet town tucked away on the north shore. It’s not far from Menjangan Island (good for diving; more on that later this week) and about two hours by car from Ubud.

Following my long night (and morning) at Ijen Crater, I catch an afternoon ferry to cross a mere 15 minutes over to Bali.

Travel tip: always keep recent receipts on hand. When I booked this trip in Yogyakarta four days prior (including stops at Mt. Bromo and Ijen Crater), this paper was the only proof that I had paid for onward travel to Lovina.

I hop on the next local bus to Lovina… as do these vendors. Sunglasses, anyone?

Shortly after we depart the ferry terminal, this man gets on with bags of LIVE CHICKENS and then shows one off. I fear the chickens are not long for this world.

I haven’t booked accommodation in Lovina. There aren’t really any hostels in Bali, just tons of hotels or guesthouses offering rooms at rather cheap prices. I’ve scoped out a few on-line and plan to see them in person before committing.

After looking at two unimpressive properties, I land at Nirwana Seaside Cottages. SOLD.

For $20 a night (walk-in rate), I get a giant second-floor room overlooking the pool. They have small cottages available for $15 a night, but once I see the pool view I realize it’s worth an extra five bucks.

I toss my luggage down, throw on a bathing suit, and make myself at home in the pool. It’s quiet here and I have the place to myself!

While the beaches at Lovina offer incredible sunsets (as evidenced later in this post), they aren’t really swim-friendly — or at least less so than other beaches I saw in Bali. A pool like this is clutch to enjoying downtime in Lovina.

Flowers from the overhead trees drop blossoms into the water.

But it’s not all sunshine and rainbows — Wifi is only available in the hotel’s outdoor restaurant and lounge, so I spend my first night there and inadvertently acquire dozens of mosquito bites. On day 2 I invest in much-needed bug spray. I’m rather terrified of getting Dengue fever or malaria (even though the latter isn’t common in Bali).

My favorite restaurant in Lovina is Akar Cafe, a vegetarian restaurant located right on the main street. Their smoothies are excellent, as is the watermelon gazpacho (pictured below).

Over the next few days I return for soy lattes, salads, and granola.

Other nights I’m less healthy and dine on olive pizza from another joint on the main street.

Sunset is an event in Lovina. Tourists and locals alike gather on the main beach to watch the sky light up with red, pink, and orange flames.

I plan to stay two nights in Lovina, but that quickly turns into four.

When I depart Bali two weeks later, I’ll look back on my time in Lovina as the highlight of my trip here. Wish I’d stayed longer!

If you are planning a trip to Bali, schedule a few days here — maybe towards the end of your trip so you can enjoy the peace and quiet after more tourist-heavy spots like Kuta and Ubud. Those places are definitely worth a visit, but the crowds and noise make it feel less relaxing. Lovina is perfect for sitting by the pool with a book. Preferably while paying $20 a night for a palatial room overlooking said pool.