I am thrilled to arrive at the Nepal chapter of my travelogue. Details from this country have lingered in my mind and I’m eager to share stories and images from my time here.

The story begins in Kathmandu, a vibrant yet impoverished capital city that swiftly captures my heart. I’ve flown in from Japan after a 24 hour layover in China and these blue signs of Nepal facts greet airport passengers on the way to customs and immigration (see photo below left). My favorite reads, “In Nepal, a beeping car horn is an expression of creativity.”

I wait in a long line to get my 30 day visa, which costs $40 USD. You need an extra passport-sized headshot to attach to the paperwork; if you fail to bring one, they have photography services available. Side note: bring a lot of extra passport-size photos if you plan to trek in Nepal, as each trail permit requires another photo.

I’ve arranged an airport pick up with Saput, the owner of Avalon House. This property is located one block north of Thamel — the main tourist district — and I’m renting a private room and bathroom for $15 a night. It’s simple and I like it.

But I actually spend most of my stay in Kathmandu next door at Holy Temple Tree, since Avalon House is fully booked when I return from my Everest trek. Saput arranges my stay here and I pay him the same rate that Avalon House charges. Here’s my room (the bathroom is off to the left):

My only complaint is that the hot water is inconsistent. But this view sort of makes up for it:

And it just so happens that I’ve arrived at the end of Dasain, which is as important a holiday in the Nepalese calendar as Christmas is in the Western world. So on my first night, this bustling city is oddly quiet as families celebrate in their homes — the streets of Thamel are empty, storefronts are closed, and several days of rain have settled the usually dusty streets.

But a day or two later, things are back to normal. I wear a face mask to protect my lungs from the constant dust as I wander around Thamel.

There are loads of shops selling trekking gear. When I finalize my Everest Base Camp plans on day three, I spend about an hour going from store to store picking up necessities — a sleeping bag, waterproof shell / jacket, new hiking pants, thick long underwear to survive the cold nights, heavy gloves and hat, and a duffel bag in which to pack it all (I plan to leave my luggage in storage at Avalon House).

Ah, pashminas… ubiquitous at shops like these in so many countries. Not necessarily made in Nepal, but pretty nonetheless. I buy a bunch at the end of my trip to send back to the States along with my trekking gear.

For the record, this is the shipping company I used to ship my gear back to the U.S. — Florida International Export and Import. I stop into maybe five different places and they quote me the cheapest price. I send a 10kg package (22 lbs.) via TNT and it costs me around $110 USD; it arrives safely in the U.S. four days later. I don’t need it to arrive that quickly, but this service seems to be the safest way to ensure my box will actually make it to the States without missing items.

I love the bakery on the right below. I stop in quite frequently for pastries and other baked goods… which are half-priced in the evening. I’ll do a post in a few days detailing my favorite restaurants in Kathmandu. There are many.

As twilight approaches, twinkling lights dot the sidewalks and crisscross overhead in alleys.

This is New Orleans Cafe. It’s one example of the kind of restaurants you’ll find in Kathmandu — charmingly decorated with a great atmosphere.

This is a central intersection below — there’s a corridor of five ATMs across the street, and a large grocery store behind me.

I find a paper goods store and wish it would be easier to transport this stuff home — how awesome would these bold colors be as wrapping paper under the Christmas tree? (I was there in October and had Xmas on the brain.)

Here’s one of several stores selling DVDs, mostly current movies and TV series.

More sparkling lights as the sky gets darker.

And I meet up for dinner with Aoife and Ger one evening! I first met this friendly Irish couple in the Galapagos back in 2009, when they were in the early stages of their own RTW trip. And now here we are, four years later, in Kathmandu where they happen to be on their honeymoon! We figure out via Facebook that our time in Nepal overlaps. It’s lovely to see them.

And here’s one last look at my guesthouse, this time at night — that’s Holy Tree Temple, with Avalon House on the far right.

Prior to landing in Kathmandu, I’d read mixed reviews on-line from people who did NOT like Thamel. I’m glad to report that I love it. Yes, it’s crowded and shops will try to entice you to look at their products as you walk by. But there are also dozens of fantastic restaurants and coffee shops, and it’s convenient to stay near the trekking stores if you need to pick up gear. Taxis are prevalent and cheap if you want to go to another part of the city.

The guesthouse I stay at is located just outside of Thamel, maybe a ten minute walk from the center hub. I like being away from the noisy bars, but close enough to access good restaurants. The only annoyance factor is crossing a very busy street each time I go back and forth. I use a flashlight at night for safety purposes. I never feel I’m in any danger during my two weeks in Kathmandu.

Whether you stay in Thamel or elsewhere in Kathmandu, it’s worth a visit to experience the charm of twinkling lights and seriously good food.