Following my temple time in Yogyakarta, I take a 12-hour mini van ride to Mt. Bromo.
It’s not nearly as bad as it sounds. I have a book with me and we’re going slow enough that I can read without getting carsick. Plus there’s podcasts of This American LIfe to keep me company.
Here’s my entire journey across Java so far: I flew into the Indonesian capital Jakarta (A below), then took and overnight train to Yogyakarta (B below), and then a 12-hour mini van ride to Mt. Bromo (C below).
Prior to arriving in Java, I’m certain that Mt. Bromo will be a highlight of my entire time in Indonesia. This is what it’s supposed to look like:
Stunning, right?
Our group wakes up at 3am to take a jeep near the viewpoint (the lower of two viewpoints, as I would later find out) and then climb to the actual platform. There are donkey rides available if desired.
Only it looks like this:
We are shrouded in clouds. Not cool, Mt. Bromo; not cool.
Regardless, we continue down to the valley below and climb the crater. In the clouds.
Here’s a view from the lip of the Mt. Bromo crater, which is just to the left over that barrier.
It clears just a tiny bit as I make my way back down.
At this point, our group leaves Mt. Bromo without ever seeing its famous peak and crater. I’m devastated.
I’ve waited years to get here… and now I’m just supposed to let go of my Mt. Bromo dream? Plus, after all the effort it took to get here (an overnight train and 12 hour bus ride), it’s not like I’m coming back anytime soon.
This has to happen now. Mt. Bromo or bust.
When our group gets back to the tour office (about a 45 minute drive down hill), I ask if I can stay another night and try again tomorrow. They happily agree and I head back up the mountain with a new group of only three tourists this time. My new tour mates are delightful (hi Kathleen, Silke, and Klaus!) and we have a fun 24 hours together.
We stay at Yoshi’s Hotel, which is budget-friendly but unfortunately not within easy walking distance of the Mt. Bromo overlook in town. I really like this place though and snap a few photos:
Later that evening my new friends and I walk uphill for dinner. I take photos overlooking the area in afternoon light, dusk, and at later night. I like the progression of evening in the next three images:
The next day, we wake up at 3am (again…) and take a jeep to the higher of the two view points.
Let me pause and describe how horrible the walk to this viewpoint is. Because it almost turns me off of Mt. Bromo entirely.
The jeeps drop everyone off at the bottom of a long hill. It takes around 20 minutes of dodging motorbikes to reach the actual viewing point. The motorbikes are there to harass tourists into paying for a ride uphill… all while expelling exhaust into the very air we’re huffing and puffing as we climb. But the time we reach the top, I’m so angry! The harassment and exhaust have killed my excitement for Mt. Bromo.
Turns out it was all for nothing. Our view is blocked by clouds… again.
But I am thrilled to have met these kind and fun individuals. Thank you for making this trip so much better than it would’ve been on my own!
Our jeep drives back down to the valley and we hike to the crater. Again, in clouds.
It’s not as bad as yesterday; today we can actually see the greenery on the hill below.
Locals offer horse rides up the crater. This one below looks so sad! I’m tempted to run off with him and give him a better life.
It’s definitely clearer — I can see all the way to the crater edge from the parking lot.
I thought this said “Bromo” until just now when I looked more closely at the letters. Who or what is Eryono?
Someone carved this face into the sand:
So many motorbikes. Just the sight of them makes me mad after this morning’s fiasco at the viewing point.
Today I don’t climb all the way back up the crater. I just walk around snapping photos.
I spy some blue sky!
The jeeps line up in the parking lot:
After two days of clouds, I’m still determined to wait it out and view Mt. Bromo in all her glory. Check back tomorrow to see if the third time’s the charm.
