I spend around five days in Ubud with little more on the agenda than to eat, sleep, and read.
But there are two destinations I can’t skip — the nearby rice fields and the monkey forrest (more on the latter tomorrow).
So I rent a bicycle for a few dollars and map out my route to the town of Tegalalang, home of the most picturesque rice terraces in Bali.
I purposely take back roads so that I’m not competing with traffic. While a few motorbikes pass me, for the most part I cycle alone in peace and admire these views:
It’s difficult to miss the regular reminders that one-third of the popular best-seller Eat Pray Love took place in Ubud.
At one point I ditch my bike on the main road (locked up, of course) and follow this path as it winds through several properties and small rice fields.
I stop once more at a particularly lush rice field. Most of the fields I’ve pass so far have been set back behind private property, but this one is right along the road.
And after about an hour of cycling and stopping for photos, I’ve arrived. Check out this postcard-perfect view of the Tegalalang rice terraces:
The best part is that these terraces are open to tourists, so you can wander at your leisure (and bat away peddlers attempting to sell straw hats and the like).
I navigate these steep, muddy steps (they’re slicker than they look) and traverse to the other side of the rice fields.
Locals ask for donations if you cross this bridge… but the sign isn’t until you get to the other side. Too sneaky for my liking.
A few locals REALLY want to pose for photos… in exchange for (you guessed it) donations. They often have props like a rice basket, pictured below.
Enjoy my photo frenzy of the rice terraces…
I have no idea why this patch is purple. It’s the only time I see the ground that color.
Notice all the restaurants on that hill across the way. It’s the main entrance and perfect spot to grab lunch with a view of the terraces.
I grab a bite to eat and admire the view for awhile longer.
I order a mie goring with chicken (and no egg). Delicious.
I’m happy with the Instagram photos I post later that day:
The bike ride back is super fast because it’s all down hill. This time I brave the main route and it only takes about 20 minutes. I barely have to pedal; gravity does all the work! But I’m extremely vigilant about traffic and, thankfully, I make it back without incident.
Tomorrow… the monkey forrest in Ubud. So excited to share those photos!
Great post. My husband and I are spending a couple of nights in Ubud and can’t decide between the guided bicycle tour and the self guided one (the latter is our preference so we can have our own pace and stop to take photos and wander a bit and not also feel pressured to buy things). We’re staying at komaneka rasa sayang (near the monkey forest), it would be great if you could please give me advice on where we should hire bicycles from here and also the route you took to get to the rice terraces? My husband is an experienced cyclist but I’d call myself a bit of a beginner (I mostly run), just want to know if the route is relatively okay and not too difficult to navigate without a GPS. Thank you!
Hi Bernice,
Thank you! You and your husband will love Ubud, it is a jungle oasis with great restaurants and lots of nature. As for where to rent bicycles, I just walked up to a shop that had bikes out front and paid maybe $5 for day-long rental plus helmet. To be honest, it wasn’t the best quality bike, and if you are looking for a great cycling experience I’d suggest finding a shop with newer bikes. A tour might not be a bad idea if they can guarantee a certain standard of cycling. I did not have GPS, but I did get a map in town and asked two people — the front desk at my lodge and the guy who rented me the bike — about the best route to the rice fields. I ended up taking side roads there because I was intimidated by all the motorbikes on the main street, plus the views are pretty along the back way. The roads were a little bumpy but mostly fine; I have almost no cycling experience so I’m sure you and your husband will be much better off! I’m sorry I don’t have more specifics to offer in regards to a specific bike shop or tour. Lots of people there sell tours, so perhaps if you wait until you arrive to check it out, you can make a decision in person based on what you find. Good luck! Enjoy Bali!
Thank you so much for your response! I am looking forward to cycling in ubud and will probably ask the hotel for a map and a bike rental place (I think the hotel bike rental fee is very expensive..). Your photos are beautiful and have also inspired us to get a better lens.
Wonderful! Have fun, and let me know how it goes! Enjoy Bali!
Hi Erica, beautiful photos. I was in Bali 30 years ago and am finally returning in July. I am preparing for major changes, but am so happy to know about your rice field trip. Where did you stay in ubud? I’m not even going to the beaches this time, except for lembagan and pemutean. Happy travels, nini. Ps, I just returned from Papua, New Guinea, goroka sing sing. Check out png tours. Expensive but fabulous.
Hi Nini!
Very neat to hear you’re headed back to Bali! I stayed at Merthayasa Bungalows in Ubud (here’s a post with photos: http://www.asherworldturns.com/healthy-living-in-ubud-bali/). It was a nice place; the bathrooms were not updated but the rooms were very clean and spacious. It’s a good location near the monkey forest and plenty of good restaurants.
Enjoy your trip back to Bali! And thanks for the tip re: png tours. I’d love to get to Papua New Guinea one day.
Cheers!
–Erica
Hi Erica,
I was curious which back roads you took to get to the rice fields. Your route seems more my style (with fewer cars/scooters!).
Thanks!
Cori
Hi Cori, I wish I could remember the exact route. I didn’t even have a proper map; I took a photo of one at the shop where I rented the bike, and then I followed the back roads in the direction of Tegalalang. I recall taking a road parallel to the main road on purpose to avoid car traffic. I rode uphill getting to the rice fields, and then it was all downhill going back into the center of Ubud. For what it’s worth, I’m not super confident on a bicycle and yet it was fine. Good luck! Enjoy the scenery!
Hi Erica,
Fantastic article! I’ve visited the rice terraces twice but always arrived by car only to spend a bit of time taking the mandatory pictures with the rest of the crowd. I’ve also done the Bali Eco Tour by bike, so this seems like the perfect combination!
Two questions; How do you know which paths to follow once you step down into the rice fields so you don’t get lost? Last time I visited we saw a woman wandering around, obviously completely lost, and I imagine it can be quite scary as you’re walking at the bottom of a valley so what looks like clear paths to follow from the tourist drop off (when you’re up high) might be super confusing when you’re at the bottom. I’d love to go explore the rice fields but wouldn’t want to get lost or (even worse) becoming the source of entertainment for the hoards of tourists across the valley;)
Second; that café in your picture looks like a perfect resting point after cycling and walking the rice fields! Where is that?
Again, thank you for sharing your trip and amazing pictures, much appreciated!
/Sarah
Hi Sarah! Sorry for my delayed response — RE: where to climb along the rice terraces, I did not find it too confusing to follow the footpaths. They are narrow and occasionally muddy, but there were enough people around that I could see where to follow and not get lost. I can see how that could be confusing if there were less people. RE: the cafe, there were a number of places to eat overlooking the rice terraces here. I think I picked that one based on availability — I saw an empty table and that cozy chair, and grabbed it. Thank you for your kind words about this blog post & photos! I appreciate it!
Hi Erica,
Thanks for sharing your cycling adventure and beautiful pic around tegallalang. Hope you don’t mind sharing where you had your lunch, it looks like an amazing place! Will be staying around Sebatu in December and would love to cycle around and check out your lunch spot.
Thanks, Jackie
Hi Jackie,
Unfortunately I don’t know the exact name of that restaurant, but I think you will easily find it once you arrive at Tegalalang — there are not too many places directly overlooking the rice fields, and those large cozy seats will be a visual clue. The food and views were great! Good luck on your trip!
–Erica
I find your post really helpful. I had booked a Bali trip next year, ans plan to go around in a bicycle. How do you park your bike? I am concered about security of the bike, like when you where in the terraces, did they have bike parking slots there?
Thanks Betty! I think my bike rental came with a security lock & key — so I had to find a post or fence to lock it to at the terraces. I remember that was easy to find and I didn’t worry about it once it was locked up. Good luck on your trip!
Hi, I’m a solo female traveller planning to go to ubud next month. I want to visit tegalalang and nearby tirta umpul together and was wondering if iI would have enough time,especially given the uphill road to tegalalang. I was wondering if I could maybe get transport up to tirta umpul and cycle downhill all the way back after I’m done exploring. Really don’t want to be caught out on my own, on the roads, in the dark espexially given road conditions in Bali.
May iknow how long the actual cycling journey there took (there and back)? Thanks!
I don’t know where Tirta Umpul is. But my trip from Ubud (near the Monkey Forrest) to Tegalang probably took 45 minutes? Or probably longer because I stopped to take photos. Then it was only about 20-25 minutes on the way back to Ubud without stopping. In regards to biking half of it, I’m guessing you could negotiate with a taxi driver to take you all the way out with the bike, and then ride back to Ubud on your own. Enjoy your trip to Bali!