It’s my first night back in Quito after ten days in the Galapagos and I decide to treat myself to a cute, low-budget hotel instead of booking a hostel. I select La Casa Sol in the Mariscal District, which I scoped out the first night I arrived in Quito. The warmth and charm of its interiors is so inviting.

This bed is insanely comfortable. I still remember that three years later.

But after one night I force myself to say good-bye to this cute property and move on to a more affordable hostel. On the way back from the airport the day before I shared a cab with fellow travelers who were returning to the Blue House hostel and raved about it. So I book myself a single room with private bathroom for $20 a night. I’ll stay for three nights total, which cost the same amount as one night at La Casa Sol ($60).

Since I’m staying at a cheaper hostel, I don’t feel bad about splurging on dinner at La Boca del Lobo. It’s all about balance, right?

This funky restaurant caught my eye the very first night I arrived in Quito and I made a note to go back.

I order the pineapple berry crepe for dessert.

While we’re on the subject of food, I’ll jump ahead to my dinner in Quito the following night — the friends I met on the second half of my G Adventures tour have just returned from Galapagos. We meet up for dinner at Mama Clorinda’s, the same restaurant I visited on my first night in Quito. It all comes full circle!

We enjoy a long meal with lots of laughter. Even though we’ve only known each other about a week, travel brings people together in a unique way and we reunite like old friends. By this point I’ve been on my own for a few days (visiting Isabela Island and climbing a volcano – more on that next week) and I’m eager to see familiar faces. This night is just what I need.

The next day I meet up with my friend Deidra from the Galapagos tour and we hire a local guide named Gaby to show us around the city. Gaby has recently graduated from tourism school and gives us a good deal on the tour. She is sweet and informative.

The first place we stop is an overlook of this valley:

Gaby points out that a small plane crashed into that building on the left below.

Basilica del Voto Nacional (Basilica of the National Vow) is the highlight of our morning — it’s the largest Neo-Gothic basilica in the Americas and it’s quite an impressive structure.

Gaby leads us upstairs to see the church from another angle. We keep climbing up and up and up…

Notice that instead of gothic gargoyles, there are statues of Galapagos animals instead — various birds and even some turtles (not pictured). Nice local touch!

After several more sets of stairs we find ourselves in the rafters of the church. We follow the platform below all the way to the far end and then climb that little black ladder to the next platform. I go with the flow but wonder how I’ll handle the reverse route. What goes up must come down…

Our efforts are rewarded with a stunning view of Quito from this high vantage point.

But then we climb up even higher!! My legs are shaking now.

We stand directly opposite the two towers.

I have to admit these views are kinda worth risking my life for.

The walkway below leads to another section over this massive basilica. You can see the walkway is rotting away, so it’s not open to the public.

The way down isn’t nearly as bad as I feared.

We make it back safely! Onto the next sight… Plaza de la Independencia in Old Town.

There are lots of churches, narrow streets, restored colonial architecture, and bustling plazas.

Here’s La Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, or the Church of the Society of Jesus.

We continue on to El San Francisco, or the Church and Convent of St. Francis.

We spend the rest of our afternoon visiting the equator and trying to balance eggs on nail heads — more on that next week!

We return to the Mariscal District and I stumble upon a camera crew. The Hollywood side of me is very curious what they are shooting but I leave them alone.

Deidra and I take a cab back to Old Town for dinner. We found it charming during our tour that afternoon but becomes a little seedy at night, which Gaby warned us about.

Deidra and I stick together and find a cute little restaurant inside a shopping area that feels safe. I didn’t take a photo, but quimbolitas are on the menu and I order one for dessert.

One last note on my time in Quito… this little guy lives at the Blue House hostel. I can’t walk by without stopping to pet him.

I have just a few more adventures to share from my time in mainland Ecuador — biking down a volcano, clowning around at the equator, and a trip to Peguche waterfall. Stay tuned next week!