So have I already convinced you that Havasu Falls is one of the prettiest spots in the States, if not our whole planet? Then the photos in today’s post and tomorrow’s post will BLOW YOUR MIND. These views are the reason we’ve come so far — an 8 hour drive from LA, followed by a 10 mile hike — to spend a whole day walking among giant waterfalls and swimming in natural blue pools. THIS is why we’re here.

After a breakfast of oatmeal and instant coffee, we pack away the camping stove and set off on a day hike. Our route is a popular one — the majority of Havasu Falls visitors will follow this same path today. It leads from the campsite down a steep cliff to Mooney Falls, and then follows the river to Beaver Falls. Hikers will take the same trail back to camp. (Extra adventurous hikers may continue all the way down to the Colorado River for a true challenge; it’s 14 miles round-trip from the campground.)

(image via)

The lighting is tricky here — because canyon walls rise high on either side of the river, much of the area is covered in shadow throughout the day. In fact, there’s really only a three hour window from roughly 11am-2pm where the sun is directly overhead. Photography is optimal during this time. Not surprisingly, I want to plan our day around these hours — it’s important to me to photograph both Mooney Falls (just below the campground) and Havasu Falls (just above the campground) in direct sunlight.

We depart camp around 9am. It occurs to us mid-hike that we should’ve started earlier and hiked all the way out to Beaver Falls — without stopping for photos since everything is in shadows — and taken our time returning as the sun rises higher… then we’d be back at Mooney and Havasu Falls by the time it’s overhead. I would recommend that strategy to anyone looking to take photos of the falls in direct sunlight. If you’re less worried about lighting for photos, then timing doesn’t matter and you can depart any time.

See what I mean about the sun and shadows? The contrast is especially evident in this view looking down towards Mooney Falls around 9:30am:

Even though Mooney Falls is not in direct sunlight here, it’s unspeakably stunning. I can’t wait to come back in a few hours and play here. Note that single picnic table at the very top of the falls — I’m not sure how you get there (surely a trail splits off below the campground?), but what a picnic location.

In the cliffs above Mooney Falls, you’ll find that the trail takes a steep turn downhill through narrow caves. This stretch is slippery (thanks to mist from the falls) and definitely dangerous because if you slip, it’s all over. For real — Mooney Falls is named after a man who fell to his death here while scouting the area for his mining company. If Havasu Falls were a national park, it’d be a zillion times safer — and, as Irving and I joke, there’d be a freaking elevator to get to the base of the falls. Instead, there’s a rickety old ladder built into the side of a cliff so unobtrusively that you can barely see it — it’s clear that this site is kept natural-looking by the lack of money and safety updates. Take your time, go slow, and you’ll make it down just fine. Then you can admire the stellar natural views with only a handful of other intrepid people willing to climb down, too. It’s a reward worth the risk.

The top of the trail starts out just fine…

… and then narrows to a small cave with steps:

The caves are tiny but not claustrophobic. There are a few lookouts along the way with ridiculous views:

Irving moves down ahead of me. At this point I tuck away my camera away and focus my attention 100% on the task at hand: slowing moving one foot below the other, using metal chains as hand-holds.

This is the next stretch, as photographed from the bottom — this part requires a good five minutes of intense climbing. The whole cliff takes 10 minutes total (including time for photos at the cave lookouts).

Well I’m glad I don’t have to think about that for another… three hours, when it’s time to climb back up.

Now we’re at the base of Mooney Falls. We skip taking photos here because of the shadows and move on, since we know we’re coming back this way later. We follow the stream with a group that we met the day before while hiking down from the hilltop parking lot.

FYI, the trail over the rock in this next photo is SUPER steep. I navigate the water around the base of the cliff instead of climbing over it; we all realize after that’s the better way to go. So if you’re planning your own hike to Havasu Falls, remember that — from the vantage point of the above photo, head down towards the water and wade in to reach the next stretch of trail. You’ll then see the view in the photo below. Breathe a sigh of relief that you didn’t have to nearly break a limb while climbing over this rock.

We find a little canyon covered in green leaves.

If you haven’t already gotten your feet wet, you’re about to — this next part of the trail overlaps with the river for a long stretch. There are several river crossings throughout the trek, and I’ve brought along Keen sandals (sort of a sneaker / sandal combo). They work out well. Irving started the day in his hiking boots but only has flip-flops to wear during this wet part of the trail; he is less happy with his footwear choice. The take-away? Definitely bring some sort of water shoe if you’re doing this trail.

A look back towards Mooney Falls and the stretch of river we just passed — note that it’s still in shadow, but by the end of the post it’ll be in full sunlight upon our return:

There’s a picnic table in the river! You can stop for a snack and let your feet stay nice and cool in the water. This is a great shady spot.

This piece of wood below looks like an animal or piece of artwork. Do you see it?

The impressive views continue…

Irving attempts to walk across this step bridge for a photo op, but it’s too rickety.

By the way, Irving is carrying my small daypack with his iPad inside (he didn’t want to leave valuables in his tent). I have my camera bag and a dry bag ready in case my feet feel unsteady in the water — the dry bag is big enough to hold my camera bag and then fit inside the daypack Irving is carrying. But the river crossings are pretty simple so I end up not needing the dry bag. I’m glad I have it though for piece of mind, as I don’t want to risk damaging my camera in the water.

The deepest part of the river is right here — the water comes up to mid-thigh so we just hike up our shorts:

Then the trail moves up through a green valley while the river splits off in another direction. If it’s possible for the views to get even better, they just did.

A simple wood plank lays across this crevice:

We meet back up with the river below.

At this point, it’s around noon and the canyon has been in full sunlight for an hour — we have to think about turning around if we want to get all the way back to Havasu Falls (above the campground) to take photos before shadows creep in. We had originally hoped to get all the way to Beaver Falls, but there’s no signage so we can’t tell how far or close we are. The map is fairly useless at this point. We decide to press on for another 15 minutes or so in search of Beaver Falls before turning back. Up the next ladder we go…

But we end up not making it all the way. I’m too concerned about missing my photographic window, and I think this is the point where Irving stubs his toe really bad (curse those flip-flops!).

Here is what Beaver Falls looks like from the trail overlooking it, as photographed a few years ago by my friend Casey who runs Modern Hiker —

(image via)

And here is Beaver Falls from a lower angle, photographed by someone I don’t know (source linked below) —

(image via)

It’s very pretty, but I’m glad we turn back in time to photograph Mooney and Havasu Falls in full daylight. We head back up the same way we came, this time a little faster because I’ve already taken so many photos.

By the time we reach Mooney, it’s fully lit up.

Get this — the shadows are already creeping in on the OTHER side of the canyon by around 1:30pm. I’m glad we arrive back here when we do.

Time to play in the waterfall! Irving goes first.

These women have the right idea — they’ve found a lounge spot at the base of the falls.

My turn to go in…

After a quick dip, we’re ready to tackle the steep ladders and slippery chains one more time. I’m eager to get up to Havasu Falls while the light is still good.

A shot from half-way up the cliff, with Mooney Falls in full sunlight this time:

What an INCREDIBLE day hike. And we’re not done yet! After stopping briefly at our tents, we push on to Havasu Falls for a few hours of swimming and relaxation. Those photos coming tomorrow.