Russell is just across the way from where our group is staying in Paihia, gateway to the Bay of Islands.

It’s not an island, but the road to reach Russell is so far out of the way from Paihia that they treat it like an island with regular ferry service three times an hour ($12 return ticket). It’s a short journey and much more accessible this way.

Back in the early 1800s Russell was known as the “Hell Hole of the Pacific” — a reputation it earned as a result of European trade for firearms and alcohol. There were no laws and prostitution was common.

But you’d never know it today. Russell has cleaned up it act in a big way over the years and now there are charming B&Bs, enticing restaurants, and beaches lined with sailboats.

I hike around Kororareka Point Scenic Reserve and find this overlook facing the wharf:

It’s a good day.

I climb up to the Flagstaff Historic Reserve for 360 degree views of Russell.

I continue towards Long Beach at Oneroa Bay.

I’m immediately charmed by this stretch of sand — it reminds me of coastal Pacific Northwest or somewhere similarly rugged. The mix of mountainous greenery and waves lapping the shore are captivating enough, but then add locals walking their dogs and it makes me want to move here.

I spy these uniquely shaped homes on my walk back to the wharf.

If I were to organize a future visit to Bay of Islands, I might skip staying in Paihia and head straight to Russell. The boat tours all stop in Russell en route to the Bay of Islands so the sights are just as accessible. But it feels like a world away! A far cry from its reputation two hundred years ago.