Kruger National Park near Johannesburg marks the final time I will go on safari in Africa… on this particular trip, anyways. But what makes this experience different from all the other game drives I’ve done in national parks across Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, Zambia, Botswana, and Namibia is that this time I’ll be behind the wheel. That’s right — I’m doing a self-drive through Kruger in my rental vehicle. Can someone warn the animals?
Scary, right? I’m used to an experienced safari driver carting us around in a giant 4WD vehicle — someone familiar with the local roads and used to navigating that particular terrain in proximity to wildlife. But today, if an elephant charges towards me from out of nowhere, it’s my responsibility to put the pedal to the metal and get out safely without harming anyone or anything. (I’m mostly concerned for the animals in that scenario, then my rental car, and finally myself.)
But I think I’m up to the task. After crossing the border from Swaziland, I drive north into Kruger and enter at the Malelane Gate.
The entire park is a little smaller than New Jersey and the speed limit is low — 50 km per hour on tar roads, and 40 km per hour on gravel roads (for reference, 50 km per hour = 30 miles per hour). There are cameras in place to monitor speed. This protects the wildlife, as giraffes and rhinos tend to be oblivious to cross walks and stop signs. I’ll only get to see part of the park before they close the gates at sunset. Here is my main route through the southern part of Kruger, not accounting for detours along gravel roads to look for wildlife:
View of the river from where I check in at Malelane Gate:
Here are the first animals I spot from my car. Humans are not to exit their vehicles at any time (unless at a designated rest stop area — there are a few cafes, public restrooms, and even a little village with campsite scattered throughout the park), so I figure out how to maneuver to the passenger seat and photograph creatures on the other side of my car.
I spy a carcass in the dry grass… scroll quickly passed the next photo if you’re squeamish.
Rhinos! Way off in the distance, catching shade under that tree. This visit is already off to a good start.
A closer (and slightly blurry) look, zoomed in to see their distinct horns:
At this point I leave the main paved road to drive along a gravel side road. I want to get away from some of the traffic in hopes of spotting wildlife close-up.
For most of the way it’s a bust, but near the end of the road this big guy comes into view:
I get an adrenaline rush being so close to him. It wasn’t like that on other safaris when someone else was sitting the driver’s seat, but knowing that I’m in command of my vehicle adds an extra thrill. There isn’t room to pass around him so I’m stuck here until he decides to move off into the bushes… which could be awhile.
It’s not bad — I think he hangs out along this road for ten minutes or so munching on branches. I’ve recently read The Elephant Whisperer so I know how easy it is for these guys to flip over cars, and I don’t want to risk alarming him by driving too close. Once he’s clearly off the road, I slowly pass him.
More elephants further down the road. And this time they’re far enough in the grass that I’m not concerned about driving too close.
Back on the major paved road, I spy giraffes. They’re totally unfazed by humans driving by in vehicles. This is their world and we’re just visitors.
More elephants ahead, only a few hundred feet away from the giraffes. Maybe it was silly of me to take that back road earlier; there is plenty of wildlife action along this main paved road.
A kind of antelope eats lunch:
By now it’s later in the afternoon (I stopped for lunch at one of the handful of cafes in the park) and I come across a herd of African buffalo.
And then another rhino — hi buddy!
More elephants, a mom and a baby:
The baby practices mock charging (which is common at that age), his ears out to express aggression. It’s pretty cute.
Viewpoint to admire scenery:
Evidence that animals are bad a reading signs: this warthog enters the village within the park, meant to be a human-friendly zone where we can get out of our vehicles. But always be careful as these guys can charge if you get too close.
On my way out of the park I run into another rhino crossing the road. This never gets old. They are just so cool to see in person in the wild.
And last but not least, some more buffalo:
This one moves into the center of the road and offers a parting gift to those of us headed out of the park.
And with that, I exit the Numbi Gate and head towards Gecko Backpackers. It’s loud because there’s a big rugby game on, but as a consolation the guy at reception tells me he won’t put anyone else in my dorm room so I can have it to myself. I’ll take it!
There’s a great cluster of restaurants not far from the hostel (I passed it on my way there from Kruger) so I go back and enjoy a great steak dinner for around $10 USD at Kuka (it comes with sides not pictured — a whipped turnip dish that is really tasty).
I’m so glad to report that my self-drive through Kruger was successful. It feels like much more of an accomplishment than my other safari trips. Glad to add another notch in my adventure belt!
