When people ask what my favorite country is, I used to give a few answers. Japan… Turkey… Nepal… sometimes Australia. But since returning from Africa last October, I have only one answer: South Africa.

This post is a long time in the making — I’ve wanted to preview my South African travels for months now, but have been overwhelmed at how much there is to share. I covered lots of territory over six weeks traveling around on my own. There are many highlights so this is a SUPER long post and I congratulate you in advance if you make it all the way to the bottom.

Here’s my approximate route, starting in Cape Town (coming down from Namibia) and ending in Johannesburg:

Let’s start with Cape Town. This city won over my heart immediately — it reminds me of San Francisco, but with a giant mountain rising behind it. Table Mountain is a wonder of nature. Here’s a view from the top:

This is one super impressed (and happy) Erica:

View of Table Mountain from the lovely V&A Waterfront:

And here’s Table Mountain as photographed from the balcony of my favorite hostel, Amber Tree Lodge in the Gardens area. I can’t say enough great things about this accommodation, but the top of the list is THIS VIEW…

Amber Tree Lodge is right around the corner from my favorite coffee shop in South Africa (all of Africa?) called The Power and the Glory. I start singing the lyrics from Pippin’s finale every time I say that name.

AHHH just looking at these photos transports me right back. I would go here each morning to edit photos and write blog posts while sipping soy vanilla lattes and eating a homemade muffin. It was a glorious routine that lasted my whole two weeks in Cape Town.

I took a walking tour of the colorful Bo-Kaap neighborhood.

This is a view of Camps Bay in Cape Town, which reminds me a bit of Santa Barbara.

And I took a ferry out to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 of the 27 years he served behind bars.

This was Nelson Mandela’s cell:

I had only one theater experience in all of my African travels — The Rocky Horror Show at the Fugard Theatre. It was my first time seeing it live and I had a blast.

One of my favorite day trips from Cape Town was a visit to the wineries of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek with the excellent Luhambo Tours. These towns feature sprawling vineyards surrounded by mountains.

I loved Stellenbosch so much that I came back on my own a few days later to stay overnight. I spent a few hours with a good book and a glass (or two) of wine.

Then I rented a car for a week to drive along the Garden Route. I’ll detail this route in a longer post — I crafted an itinerary that worked out so well and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to anyone planning a trip here.

Views along the coast heading down to Cape Point:

This is Boulder’s Beach near Simon’s Town on Cape Point — penguins swim in the turquoise waters and sun themselves on the sand. The beach is named after the giant boulders lining the shore.

I spot a wild ostrich crossing the road en route to the very end of the Cape Peninsula.

This is the Cape of Good Hope lighthouse. There is a misconception that this is the southernmost point of the African continent (and the dividing line between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans), but that honor goes to Cape Agulhas about 90 miles east. This is an overwhelmingly beautiful spot; I took photos in every direction.

View from the lighthouse:

Selfie at the Cape of Good Hope… this shot is a rainbow of colors:

Okay, prepare yourself for this next view; it’s one of my favorites. This is a shot from the unnamed stretch of coast along R44 between Gordon’s Bay and Pringle Bay. (Kogel Bay Resort is the closest landmark I can find on Google Maps.) Isn’t this majestic?

My visit coincides with the height of whale watching season in Hermanus (September-October), a bucolic town along the coast.

The Southern Right whale is distinguished by calluses on its head. They swim very close to shore (I snapped this photo from a boat, however).

In Gansbaai I met up with my tour guides from Acacia Africa — my favorite couple on the African continent, Riaan and Juliana.

And I went shark cage diving in Gansbaai! Great White Shark Tours hosted my trip and the experience did not disappoint. What a thrill to see these giant creatures up close.

Every once in awhile one would leap out of the water like it was auditioning for the sequel to JAWS (okay, so there’s already a sequel to JAWS but you get the idea).

My Garden Route road trip continued through Swellendam. In a short distance the weather turned from puffy clouds to an ominous rainstorm.

In Swellendam I stayed at the cutest guest house — I rented this room at the last minute for about $25 per night instead of staying in a hostel (the rates are a little higher if you book in advance; I was traveling in the low season so it wasn’t a problem to call them up the afternoon I arrived — I also skipped the breakfast option to get that lower rate). Isn’t it adorable? This place is called Impangale Guest House (its Trip Advisor reviews are excellent) and the owners are incredibly kind. Each room is decorated with a particular theme; I had the Giraffe Room.

This photo is from my dinner that night at Koornlands restaurant and it’s typical of most of my meals in South Africa — a filet of meat (springbok, ostrich, beef… surprise me) with a glass of red wine. In most places this meal costs about $15 including tip. Good deal, right?

The next day I stopped at Cango Ostrich Farm in Oudtshoorn to say hello to these ravenous creatures. I was genuinely freaked out by how aggressive they got while feeding.

The nearby Cango Caves are pretty spectacular. I’ve been to plenty of caves (here’s one I wrote about caves on Kangaroo Island, Australia) but this is especially cool.

But perhaps the best highlight of Oudtshoorn is Cango Wildlife Ranch — this is like the Disney World of African wildlife. (Which is to say it’s like the Animal Kingdom? I have not been.) You can arrange close-up encounters with lots of the animals — cheetahs, lemurs, crocs, tigers, and snakes. Or just enjoy the hour-long tour of the park; you will be impressed by that alone. This is a great place to take kids, but people of all ages will find it engaging.

I really wanted to go cage diving with crocodiles and the folks at Cango Wildlife very kindly arranged it. The season has just begun (the weather is too cold from June-September) so the crocs are still warming up. But it’s so neat to get that close to them.

This is the beach at Sedgefield, where I made a quick stop on my way to Knysna. The weather was moody but it was still a nice detour.

Next up, I spent two nights in the seaside town of Knysna. I wish I had a third night here (two full days) because it’s such a pleasant place. This is my room in Hide Away Guest House — again, I contacted them at the last minute and they kindly offered me a lower-than-published rate (I think I paid $30 or $35 a night, as a solo traveler with no breakfast). It’s an unorthodox way to book a room but it’s how I was able to avoid hostels in favor of bed-and-breakfast style accommodation on my Garden Route road trip. It was a luxurious upgrade from what I’m used to. (I never played the ‘blog card’ for accommodation.)

Views of the Knysna Heads, looking towards Featherdale Private Nature Preserve (only accessible via boat).

Doesn’t this look more like the Caribbean than South Africa?

More from images from scenic Knysna…

I pass briefly through Plettenberg Bay, pausing to photograph this pristine coastline:

And then I crossed over the Bloukrans Bridge. It’s home to the world’s highest commercial bungy jump at over 700 feet (215 meters) above the Bloukrans River.

A company called Face Adrenaline operates the bungy jump… and, despite the fact that I am scared shitless, I take the plunge. I’m barely coherent when I jump off the bridge; there is video to prove it. I’m nauseous just recalling the moment I stepped off the bridge — every bone in my body was telling me not to do it. I would jump out of a plane again in a heartbeat, but bungy jumping is a whole different level on the adrenaline scale.

I spent the next night in Storms River visiting Tsitsikamma National Park. This place is gorgeous — I went for a long hike along the coast to a waterfall (it’s the first stretch of the Otter Trail) and then spent the next morning kayaking.

Untouched Adventures offers a really neat Kayak and Lilo tour. I only had time for the half-day kayak option, but it was spectacular.

I officially wrapped up my Garden Route road trip in Port Elizabeth, where I ate a delicious dinner at The Two Olives around the corner from Hippo Backpackers (great part of the city to stay in). Here’s the dessert platter… that is a deep fried Lindt chocolate ball in the center. YUM.

Next I hopped aboard the Baz Bus to travel between Port Elizabeth and Durban. This company operates like Stray Bus in New Zealand — they offer hop-on, hop-off transportation between cities and tourist attractions, stopping at all of the major hostels in each place. It’s convenient if you don’t want to hire a car, and you’ll meet like-minded travelers along the way.

The guy above is a driver named Jay. He’s been with Baz Bus for over a decade and he’s an incredibly charitable human being — he drops off food (some donated, some purchased out of his own pocket) to poor communities along his bus route. People wait for him on the side of the road when they know he’s passing through; he pulls over for a moment to drop the food off.

I spent two nights at Buccaneers Backpackers in Cintsa, South Africa. This is the remarkable view from their balcony:

Kitesurfing is popular along this beach — it’s mesmerizing to watch these guys in action; they lift off dozens of feet into the air.

I stopped at Coffee Bay for one night anticipating a hike to Hole in the Wall, but that trek takes the better part of a day and the Baz Bus schedule departs at noon. (I would’ve had to stay three nights to wait for the next bus but that didn’t work for my itinerary.) Next time!

In Durban I met a fabulous new friend, Brittany, as well as brother-and-sister duo Andrew and Kate (Kate’s currently volunteering in Lesotho as a part of the Peace Corps). We grabbed dinner one night at a Taco Zulu… a restaurant that has tacos, sushi, and pizza. Basically all my favorite foods in one place.

Another highlight of Durban is the Freedom Cafe, a coffee and lunch spot that Brittany and I stumbled upon after the owner of a nearby used bookstore tells us about it. This place is a gem and absolutely must-visit if you find yourself in Durban.

Next up I hopped back on Baz Bus headed towards the Drakensberg region. That name translates to ‘Dragon Mountains’ for reasons that will soon become clear. I stayed at the wonderful Amphitheatre Backpackers Lodge, a chill oasis in the mountains — they offer day trips to the magnificent Amphitheatre hiking trail and Lesotho.

View of the Drakensberg region:

I eagerly signed up for a day trip to Lesotho. After crossing the border, the roads disappeared and we found ourselves driving over mud and rocks (normal for this part of the country). Our group was split in two vans — the only vehicles in sight — and yet one accidentally backs into the other while trying to climb up slick terrain. Doh! No one is hurt, but they have to find a tractor to pull the vans apart. Our guide handled the predicament SO well and our tour continued as scheduled (we were only a half-mile from the village).

Here we are walking towards the village in Lesotho… the landscape is breathtaking.

We climbed to a historic cave dwelling way above the village:

The locals were really welcoming. The tour company (run by Amphitheatre Backpackers) does charity work for the village so they have a nice rapport with the tours that pass through here.

The next day I did the Amphitheater hike, a trail I’d long anticipated. I can’t wait to detail this experience in a longer post because it’s unlike anywhere I’ve ever been before. I’ll keep mum for now and let these photos preview what’s to come.

Do you get a feel for why the name of this area translates to Dragon Mountains? There’s something epically Medieval about the fog and those peaks.

I spent a quick night in Johannesburg and then rented a car to begin my second road trip, this time headed to Swaziland, Kruger National Park, and the Panorama Route.

(For the record, it was super easy to cross the border between South Africa and Swaziland in a rental car. I had to tell the car rental company I planned to go here and they gave me a piece of paper saying I had permission to drive the car through that area. I think I had to pay a small fee when entering Swaziland — maybe the equivalent of $10? — but nothing when returning to South Africa. I had to wait in an extra line at both borders but they were fast and easy crossings.)

First up, Swaziland. I attended a dance at the cultural center that was truly exquisite — 45 minutes of passionate singing and rhythm and movement; I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face or stop myself from tapping along to the beat.

I walked around nearby Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary and saw animals up close.

I spent my second night in Swaziland at the Hawane Resort. I’d first read about this from fellow travel blogger RTW in 30 Days and knew that if I ever made it to Swaziland, I had to splurge and spend a night at this resort (one night runs about $60 — not a bad price at all, but hostel dorm beds cost under $15 so it’s a bit of a jump from what I’d been paying). The hut was one of the more unique places I stayed in Africa and I’m glad I got here.

Next I drove through Kruger National Park. This was the first (and only) time I’ve driven myself on safari — someone else has always been in control of the vehicle, so this was a fun challenge. It’s easy to be a backseat driver when you’re not behind the wheel — “a little closer please,” someone will often say as we approach a herd of elephants, even though the driver knows these creatures can charge at any moment and he’d be in trouble if the vehicle (or humans) get scratched. So I took this very seriously and fortunately myself, the vehicle, and all of the animals in the park came out of the experience unscathed.

Then I spent a day driving the Panorama Route through Mpumalanga, the South African province with the best (and hardest-to-pronounce) name.

The Panorama Route starts in the town of Graskop. It’s easy to drive and pull over at each scenic point of interest — God’s Window, the Pinnacle, Bourke’s Luck Potholes, Blyde River Canyon, and several gorgeous waterfalls like the one below. There’s a nominal fee to access each site (like a dollar) and there isn’t too much walking or hiking involved. Each stop is worthwhile and it’s a great way to spend the better part of a day.

This is Bourke’s Luck Potholes:

The best part of the Panorama Route, by a long shot, is scenic Blyde River Canyon. It’s been ranked high on my list of places to visit in South Africa for months — many people have told me about it during my travels. It’s a stunning viewpoint overlooking an expansive green canyon with a pretty river. (Those rounded peaks on the right are called the Three Rondavels, reminiscent of the primitive dwellings with thatched huts that have been historically popular in Africa.) I’m in love with this view.

Back in Graskop, I stop for a late afternoon pancake with fig and pecans that is among the greatest things I’ve ever tasted. There are several famous pancake shops here and this one did not disappoint.

I end my South African travels with a few quick days in Johannesburg, or Joburg as everyone here calls it. Since I had a few hours before returning my rental car, I head out to Lion Park to cuddle with these kitties:

Side note: a 29-year-old Game of Thrones VFX editor was tragically killed at this park a few days ago. Her window was down all the way (park signs stipulate that windows must be kept up) and a lion lunged through the window and attacked her neck. My condolences go out to the victim’s family.

And then I returned the rental car. I had heard that driving in Johannesburg can be dangerous at night because of carjackers. It’s common to NOT stop at stop signs or red lights at night, but rather slow down to make sure no one else is coming and then just go — I’m told the police don’t ticket for this after dark because it’s understood that this minimizes the risk of carjacking… though perhaps investigate that for yourself before trying it! After a total of two weeks driving on my own over the previous month-and-a-half, I was happy to turn in the rental car and go back to public transit for my final days in South Africa.

Since my time in Joburg was limited and I didn’t have a huge desire to explore the city in depth (like I eagerly did with Cape Town), I spent one day on a hop-on, hop-off city tour. This sort of “Joburg in a nutshell” tour was exactly what I wanted.

The tour stopped in the township of Soweto — did you know that both Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu lived on the same street in Soweto, right around the corner from each other? There must’ve been something in the water… both men would go on to win the Nobel Prize for Peace.

I spent the whole afternoon at the Apartheid Museum — and honestly, you need a whole day to view it properly. I really only saw the first half before I had to leave to catch the bus. It gives a phenomenal overview of apartheid, Mandela’s personal history, and historical context for South Africa as a country.

There’s a great coffee shop in downtown Joburg called Doubleshot. I give it two thumbs up.

View of Constitution Hill, the final stop on our hop-on, hop-off tour:

I’m doing a slow clap right now for anyone still reading this. Congrats — you reached the end, and you’ve won my eternal devotion for getting this far. My posts are always photo-heavy but this one takes the cake (85 images…!). I hope you’ve enjoyed this preview of South Africa and I look forward to writing more in depth about each location over the next few months.