As I wrote yesterday, I decide to skip the typical tours offered at Lake Naivasha in favor of doing my own thing. Options include a guided bike ride through a national park, horseback riding on a wildlife reserve, a nature walk through another reserve, and high tea at Elsamere Conservation Centre. If memory serves, each activity costs about $45 (except Elsamere which is more like $15) — not a terribly high price, though I suspect I can do better on my own. But the main reason I opt out is because the tours only happen in the morning… so I’d have to pick one activity, when I really want to do two.

So I find my own transportation (a matatu down the road and then a motorbike driver) to take me to my first destination: Crater Lake, which is ten miles away from our campsite. The highlight of Crater Lake is a walking path through a nature reserve where I’m told I can get up close and personal with the wildlife. The motorbike guy drops me off and we set a time for him to pick me up in a few hours.

A security guard at the gate hands me a map, pointing to the main walking trails and instructing how to get to Crater Lake Camp when I’m finished. Then off I go! Within minutes I stumble upon this guy:

I quickly realize it’s fairly terrifying to walk through a nature sanctuary without a vehicle for protection, especially when I am 100% alone — there is no one else here at this particular moment. I feel so exposed! And these animals seem wary of me, especially the giraffes.

It’s incredible to see these guys in the wild. There are so many giraffes, in every direction.

Here are more warthogs, or ‘pumbaas’ if you will — it never ceases to amaze me how everyone in Africa (local guides and tourists alike) refer to these guys by their Lion King name. The reach of Disney knows no bounds.

I slowly walk forward on the main trail, treading carefully so as not to spook the giraffes… but it doesn’t work. Have you ever witnessed a giraffe run? It looks painful and I feel guilty for walking in their vicinity, even though I’m right where I’m supposed to be on the trail.

After 10 or 15 minutes, these giraffes cross over to their safe spot and I’m far enough away that they stop giving me side eye. I admire them from a distance.

I move on, and immediately spy buffalo in the distance. SHOOT. These big boys are notoriously dangerous to humans — they charge unprovoked and are among the deadliest animals in Africa. So why on earth does this reserve allow tourists to walk in close proximity to buffalo?!

I make a WIDE circle around this herd and spot a watering hole for zebras… and more buffalo. Sigh.

A zebra rolls around in the dirt. It’s stinkin’ adorable.

I follow a path leading into the woods. Before long I notice trees swaying the distance, only to realize they are giraffe necks! I turn in a complete circle around me and notice a half-dozen more of these elongated necks camouflaged amongst the trees.

They move with such grace, and their colors and patterns are so eye-catching. I happily stop for awhile to observe them with my camera.

A few more highlights from this self-guided nature walk:

After about 90 minutes exploring part of the train, I bid adieu to these wildlife creatures and head down to Crater Lake.

There is a camp (more like a resort) along this part of the lake.

The main lobby features skulls of big game and various types of African antelope. I find them oddly fascinating, especially the impressive chompers on this hippo. (Mental note: never piss off a hippo.)

This area (by reception) is also where I’m supposed to pay the entrance fee, then they’ll give me a receipt to show the security guard on my way out. The price for visiting the reserve is $25 but the manager kindly discounts my trip when I tell him about my blog.

I spend the last half-hour of my visit walking up a hill to this lookout point with sweeping views of Crater Lake:

I’m thrilled to have made it here — what an exhilarating morning to see wildlife up close!

Next up: my afternoon bike ride through Hells Gate National Park.

Many thanks to Crater Lake Camp for discounting my entrance fee. Opinions are my own.